a few of my cookbooks

Sunday, February 17, 2013

Chicken Fricassee

After several disappointing Valentine's Day dinners at restaurants, we have taken up the tradition of having a nice home cooked family dinner at home.  Rather than paying for overpriced food that is generally mediocre, I tried to recreate a restaurant quality dish this past Thursday.

I attempted Julia Child's Chicken Fricassee out of her cookbook  From Julia Child's Kitchen.  Essentially this is chicken in a white wine cream sauce with mushrooms and onions, which I then served over long grain rice.  It has a very French feel. On the whole, I'd grade the meal as a "B".   Part of this is my execution and high expectations for serving a really special meal to my family.

I found that my chicken thighs created too much fat in the pan when I browned them.  To do it again, I would have cut back on some of the butter from what is called for -- much easier to add than take it away.  As the dish cooks, you add heavy cream towards the end, and the consistency of my sauce was fatty.  I wouldn't suggest using skinless chicken, as I think you want the flavor the skin brings.  Be deliberate with the amount of butter used.

Interestingly, we had leftovers, and I reheated a piece of chicken with some of the rice this afternoon for lunch, and found it to be much better a day later.  One of the notes in the recipe is that you can make ahead, and slowly reheat.  I now wonder if this would taste better as a meal to prepare in advance.

Flavor wise, this dish was a little bland compared to other things we typically eat.  It needed some more tarragon and I may have needed a little more pepper.   I would attempt this again, but would definitely put more consideration into some of spicing and balance of butter.  I look forward to attempting other Julia recipes, but will be more mindful of how to adapt to our tastes.

Recipe:  Chicken Fricassee (courtesy of From Julia Child's Kitchen)

2.5 lbs chicken pieces
salt and pepper to taste
16 to 20 small white onions, peeled (or use frozen petite raw onions -- doubled)
3 Tbs flour
1 quart fresh mushrooms, trimmed, washed and quartered
3 to 4 Tbs butter
1/2 tsp tarragon
2 cups dry white wine
2 cups chicken bouillon
approximately 1/2 cup heavy cream
Drops of lemon juice

Over moderate heat, cook butter in pan until foaming.  Add chicken pieces and turn frequently in the butter for several minutes, regulating heat so chicken does not brown.  Meat should stiffen slightly in contrast to its squashy raw state, and become golden yellow.

Then season chicken pieces with salt and pepper; add tarragon.  Place the onions around the chicken.  Cover and cook slowly 10 minutes, turning once.  Uncover pan, sprinkle on the flour, turning chicken and onions so flour is absorbed; cook 3 to 4 minutes more, turning once or twice.  Remove from heat, gradually stir and swirl in the wine and enough stock to almost cover the chicken.  Cover pan and simmer slowly 25 to 30 minutes, then test chicken; remove those pieces that are tender and continue cooking the rest a few minutes longer.  If onions are not quite tender, continue cooking them; then return all chicken to pan, add mushrooms and simmer 4 to 5 minutes.  Taste carefully and correct seasoning.

Add 1/2 cup of cream and bring to a simmer, thinning out if necessary with spoonfuls of cream until sauce coats chicken and vegetables lightly.  Correct seasoning again, adding drops of lemon juice to taste.

Serving and holding notes:  For immediate serving, arrange the chicken and vegetables on a platter, surrounded by the rice or whatever else you are including.  For later serving, baste chicken with its sauce, and let cool, uncovered, to room temperature; then cover and refrigerate.  To reheat, simmer slowly, covered; baste and turn chicken every 2 minutes until thoroughly warmed through (6 to 8 minutes), but do not overcook.

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